Japanese Gothic Punk Dress

This Japanese gothic punk dress closes on a bow and a cross and finishes on two rows of ruffles

The whole dress is built on one vertical line. A stand collar edged with a narrow frill holds the neck upright, a black satin bow sits at the throat with a small silver cross hanging from its knot, and a single row of buttons runs from there to the waist between two strips of ruffled trim. It is the severe, buttoned-up register of Harajuku dressing rather than the sweet one.

The sleeves stay full along the arm and gather back in at the wrist, so the shoulders read wide and the hands come out neatly. Below the nipped waist the skirt breaks into two tiers of wide ruffles and flares out well above the knee  the proportion that places it in jirai kei rather than in costume.

It is worn with black over-knee socks and thick-soled shoes, ribbons or a small headdress in the hair, and a little cross or a chain at the neck to answer the one on the bow. Nothing else is needed: the dress carries the ryousangata silhouette on its own.

What to know

• Short black dress with a stand collar edged in a narrow frill
• Black satin bow at the throat with a small silver cross pendant
• Front button placket framed by two strips of ruffled trim
• Long sleeves, full along the arm, gathered into a cuff at the wrist
• Skirt made of two tiers of wide ruffles, stopping above the knee
• Woven polyester, non stretch, slim fit, natural waistline
• Sizing: available from US 4 to 12
• Japanese style: gothic punk, the buttoned-up side of Harajuku