A pair of white socks sits by the door of a Kyoto tea house, next to wooden sandals. The big toe is separated from the rest, like a mitten for the foot. Those are tabi (足袋), the socks you need to wear Japanese sandals properly.

Translated from Japanese, tabi literally means "foot bag". It is a traditional sock that reaches the ankle and isolates the big toe from the others. Also called "split toe socks". Traditionally, these kimono socks are white.

In Japan, traditional clothing is worn on special occasions such as summer Matsuri festivals, funerals or weddings. Travel to the Land of the Rising Sun and you will see women in a kimono (着物) and men in a hakama (袴) or haori (羽織).

The kimono is the traditional Japanese attire par excellence. Wearing it according to tradition means following a dress code. Part of that complete outfit are the traditional Japanese sandals made of wood, called geta or zori. To wear these samurai and geisha sandals, tabi socks are essential.

Here is what this guide covers

• What is the origin of Tabi?
• What is Jika-Tabi?
• What are the different styles of Japanese socks?
• Why wear Tabi socks?
• How to wear these traditional Japanese socks?

Origin of Japanese socks

Historically, the first cotton tabi had thicker soles than ordinary socks. They were not elastic. You put them on through an opening at the back.

The tabi closes with the kohaze. These are small metal hooks, fastened onto keito (or "kakeito"), loops of thread hidden inside the fabric at the ankle.

The earliest written records of tabi date back to the Heian period. This type of sock was worn by the nobility and was called shitozu. The sole was made of leather or straw, so the wearer could step outside a Japanese house. Peasants wore straw sandals called waraji.

Classical tabi socks appeared with the evolution of shoemaking. Cotton was a rare material in Japan at that time. Tabi were reserved for the social elite.

Trade with China brought in more cotton, so more socks could be produced. That is how tabi became an indispensable part of the Japanese dress code.

During the Meiji period (1868-1912), the colour of socks marked social class:

• Colourful and printed tabi socks: for Japanese musicians and artists
• Gold or purple tabi socks: for samurai
• White tabi socks: for Japanese events and ceremonies
• Black or navy blue tabi socks: for men travelling, to avoid showing marks and dirt

That colour code still guides how I choose a pair today. White for ceremony, darker or patterned for daily wear with jeans.

In 1922 (Taisho period, 1912-1926), the brothers Tokujirō and Shōjirō Ishibashi created the jika-tabi. They made a classic tabi using rubber. It is the shoe version of the tabi, worn outdoors.

The Jika-Tabi: outdoor Tabi

These tabi boots are reinforced and fit snugly on the feet. They are comfortable to wear for sport or work.

The soles are made of a hard-wearing material. They stay flexible and give good grip.

The Japanese also created knee-high tabi boots for working rice fields and walking in marshy ground.

The matsuri tabi is worn at festivals, because the sole is very comfortable for long hours standing.

In 1988, the jika-tabi was revisited by fashion designer Martin Margiela. He created tabi booties for women, with a heel.

What are the different types of Japanese socks?

Tabi are one family among many. Japanese sock culture is wide, and each style has its own occasion.

The classic tabi socks

Today, most tabi socks are made of a stretchy material. They go on like western socks, without fasteners.

The white version remains the formal standard, worn with a kimono for weddings, tea ceremonies and New Year visits.

Gohon-yubi no kutsushita: the glove socks for feet

The 5-toe socks are gloves for the feet. All five toes are separated for more comfort.

They originated in Spain, but are very popular in Japan, especially among athletes.

Japanese heated socks

The weather is cold in parts of the Japanese archipelago. Seasonal socks keep feet warm.

The Fuwa Fuwa: slipper socks

They look like children's soft toys. They are worn inside the house. They are soft and comfortable, like slippers.

Kon-hai socks

These are navy blue high socks. They are worn by middle school and high school girls, as tights or socks.

Japanese high socks

They are called loose socks. They resemble the plain, slouchy socks worn by young girls in the 90s. The length varies according to the taste of Japanese school girls.

Why wear Japanese tabi

Here are the different reasons people give for wearing tabi socks:

• Friction between the toes is reduced. The big toe stays in its natural position, which helps stabilisation, as the soles grip the ground better
• Modern tabi are fun to wear. It feels close to being barefoot
• The separated toe allows more air around the foot, which wearers link to less perspiration and less odour
• Many wearers find tabi keep the feet warm without bulk
• Some podiatrists suggest tabi may help limit Hallux Valgus, a foot deformity caused by the deviation of the first metatarsal and big toe

The role of tabis in Japanese manners

To respect Japanese customs, follow the code of manners. You take off your shoes on the doorstep, before entering a Japanese home.

To make a good impression, always keep your socks in good condition. Dirty socks or socks with holes are considered disrespectful to the host.

Tabi were worn centuries ago to face the cold and to fit into Japanese sandals. Today they are a fashion accessory as much as a traditional one. There is a quiet Wabi-Sabi pleasure in a pair softened by wear, as long as it stays clean.

If you like the Japanese style of dress, keep a small pair at the bottom of your wardrobe drawer. You can browse a range of Tabi Socks to find the one that suits your wardrobe.

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